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0381 India and Tibet : vol.1
India and Tibet : vol.1 / Page 381 (Color Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000295
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TIBETAN SECLUSION BROKEN 309

hill, Lord Curzon, from England, Lord Kitchener, and

very many others, also sent their congratulations ; and

now while the Chinese Government were making up their

minds whether they would allow the Resident to sign his

adhesion to the Treaty, I had leisure and inclination to go

41   about Lhasa and see something of the monasteries and

temples, and talk with the people in a less forced and

formal manner than I had to while the strain of the

negotiations was on us.

We had so far seen the Tibetans only on the conten-

tious side. Now that the stress was over I wished to see

them as they really were. What especially I wished to

see was their monastic life. The priesthood ruled Tibet.

Religion was the chief characteristic of the people. Their

religion and the character of the Lamas, who both led the

religious life of the people and guided their political desti-

nies, were, therefore, the special objects of my interest.

~i   From the first I had insisted that we should not be

denied access to the monasteries, for to get rid of mis-

ir   understandings it was essential that we should close up

«;   with the Lamas and come directly into contact with

them. But I had been careful to let only those officers

+~   enter the monasteries who could be trusted to comport

themselves with propriety, and have all reasonable regard

for the feelings and prejudices of the monks.

tiFor this purpose Mr. White, Mr. Walsh, Captain

O'Connor, and Colonel Waddell, the well-known writer

It   on Lamaism, who was appointed Chief Medical Officer

and Archa ologist to the Mission's escort, were invaluable.

Each had his special qualification for the work, and each

made use of it by 66 peaceful penetration " to break through

the last barrier which separated us from the Tibetans.

Mr. White was known in person or by reputation as none

of the rest of us were, and had many friends who were

also friends of these Lamas. Through them he obtained

an invitation to the De-pun Monastery, and from this

start made rapid progress. Mr. Walsh, as Deputy Com-

missioner of Daijiling, and through his long acquaintance

with this frontier and intimate knowledge of the language

and history of the country, was also able to exert a most