CHAPTER V
Good water—Difficult ascent—Hard work—Departure of our escort—Mountain sickness—Game very wild—Misled by guide—Annoying ponies—Trying ascent to a hill station—News of ChukpasGuides propose an attack—Division of spoil—Keze ChakaHalwa—Enforced short marches—Bad state of transport—Feelings of Tibetans towards Europeans—Pombos—Taxes—Curious behaviour of sick mule—Dusty camp—Frozen ink—Waterless camp—Strange river—In search of Rundor—Flashing signals—Reliable news of Rundor.
IN this part of the country good water was difficult to find, and day after day we were obliged to content ourselves with such natural solutions of salt and soda, or such muddy mixtures as the neighbourhood supplied. We could think of no method of removing the salt and soda, but by boiling the muddy liquid and adding a mere pinch of powdered alum a fairly clear water could be obtained. The privations of the wilderness, however, have their compensations, and the springs of water, fresh and pure, on which we at length lighted not only relieved our anxiety, but gave such keen enjoyment as only those who have suffered from similar inconvenience can understand.
About a week's journey from Thurgo we approached the fine snow-clad mountains of Lari Fobrang, or Lari
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