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0325 In Tibet and Chinese Turkestan : vol.1
In Tibet and Chinese Turkestan : vol.1 / Page 325 (Color Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000230
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  •        MEETING MACARTly EY.

289

-garavK.- . The Beg was evidently a man who had grown

  •  - old: in - the enjoyment of comfort, • probably, or rather -certainly, the-fruit.pf his " squeezings " during his tenure :of office. fre informed me that he had received strict orders frona the Chow-Kuan of Yangi Shahr to escort me through his district and afford me every assistance ; and, for this reason, he could not be -persuaded to leave me till, at the boundary of s jurisdiction, he had handed me over to the Be? f Tazgun . He of Tazgun, more amenable-i-a,44Y'..wis4es, left me before I reached Yangi Shahr.; And:,-:skiitirid that town so as to •avoid oppressive *attention, j. marched towards Kashgar. - As I hurried on I sud4nly met Macartney, who, with his Chaprassie,

  • Jaffar 7Ali, was looking out for me. It was only ten

Fiths since I had left them at Yarkand, but they had

been.months of toil ; both my appearance and my garb had changed, and I was not recognised. However, my 'voice-declared my' identity, and my friend took me to his home-, which seemed like . a little oasis of civilisation amidst .wastes of Asiatic barbarism. For me the place had •something of an air of enchantment ; the looks, the 'language, the conversation, the ways of thinking of my

  • hos. t   hostess were delightful, while the physical
    .

  • '. ,OpmIciff derived from well-furnished rooms, table linen, ':-•filates to 'eat• from, and glasses to drink . from, to say nothing of the well-cooked viands, was such as I had never experienced before. None can appreciate the ordinary comforts of life like those who have been long deprived of them. Several days elapsed before the sensations of preternatural enjoyment began to tone down, and I. was able to consider calmly the conditions of life in Kashgar.

One question which interested me and .which I set myself to_answet was, whether Muz Tagh Ata is visible from Kashgar. Having measured a base with one end

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