here and there a peak already covered with snow overtopped the dark heights.
Late in the evening the Saturn() dropped her anchor before the small coast town of Rize, the lights of which glimmered in a small recess in the line of mountains. The white surf beat monotonously against the beach, the vessel rose and fell slowly, the rudder banged and banged so that the whole hull trembled, which did not tend to lull light sleepers to rest.
Next day at the hour of starting we could enjoy the picturesque panorama presented by Rize and its surrounding heights. The centre of the life of the town seemed to be the strand road where the white two-storeyed houses, with red-tiled roofs sloping to the four sides, lay thickest. Here several boats were drawn up on land, most of them small fishing-boats, but also larger sailing boats with one or two masts ; some of these were also anchored in the roadstead, and a whole flotilla of small boats were out fishing more than a mile from the coast. The greater the distance from the strand road, the more scattered are the houses, but they are seen right up to the summit of the ridge where they are perched like swallows' nests among the vegetation and turn their northern fronts to the sea ; from the uppermost the view must be magnificent, but it is a hard pull up there. And the charming picture is framed in lofty mountains clothed with bright white snow-fields.
Then we steered westwards. This coast, which I had skirted twice before, in 1886 and 189o, is very uniform, a series of elevations with rather a steep fall to the sea, seldom broken by lowland, but often by valley mouths. On the flanks and by the shore are seen lonely farms and woods interrupted, even high up on the slopes, by patches of tilled land. Here and there greyish-blue smoke rises from a chimney. Three hours passed by. A solitary sailing vessel was waiting for a wind. The mountains were lower than before, we again approached the coast and made straight for Trebizond, the haven where we would be, though it was not yet visible, for the air was hazy. A little later the eastern end of the town, built in an amphitheatre,
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