only a few years later, resulted in a violent upheaval and in the new Shah's deposition belongs to the events of the past year, which are too well known to need description.
In contrast to his son, the Valiad, Muzaffar-ed-din had the marked characteristic Turkish features of the Kajars, and the same roundish prominent nose and moustache as his father, but he was more gentle and affable in his bearing. To me he was exceedingly kind, and would, with pleasure, provide an escort for my caravan, which he considered necessary, especially in the not too secure borderland towards Baluchistan. The very next day I received a letter from the Minister for Foreign Affairs, written by order of the Shah, and so flattering that I have not the face to reproduce it here. It concluded, I may say, with an expression of " His Majesty's thankfulness that you are beginning a new journey through Persia, his great interest in your future fortunes, and his wish that he may receive from time to time reports of the events of the journey."
The question of the escort was settled in the following manner. Immediately before Christmas the Foreign Minister wrote to Count d'Apchier, asking how many soldiers I wished to have. We consulted with Colonel Douglas, who advised me not to take ordinary soldiers, as they were more troublesome than useful. It would be better to speak with the commander of the Persian Cossack brigade, Colonel Chernisuboff. These Cossacks are, indeed, Persians, but are drilled and commanded by Russian officers after the Russian model, and are incomparably the finest men in the otherwise despicable Persian army. In consultation with the Russian colonel the strength of the escort was fixed at only two men, who were considered quite sufficient, and the selection was made two days before my departure.
Firstly, in the company of the friendly and jovial colonel as guide, I was present at the lessons in four classes of the preparatory Cossack school, where instruction is given in Russian, French, and Persian ; then inspected the magazine and arsenal, the barracks and
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