! t?CXIII
THROUGH THE KEVIR AGAIN 397
wild animals in the country are ibex, gazelles, wild sheep, and wild asses, the latter on the sandy desert on the border of the Kevir, the former in the hilly tracts. The owner of the village, our host, had shot many wild asses, and was wont to sell their skins to the shoemakers of Tebbes. When, as now, there was much rain, the chase was not profitable, for the wild asses could find water anywhere ; at other times they are dependent on springs, and then is the time for the huntsman to stalk his prey.
Nineteen different hills are visible from Aruzun, each with its particular name. Between N. 61° W. and N. 56° E., the Kevir takes up the whole of the outlook, and the horizon is as level as if drawn by a ruler. The desert is coloured pink, violet, and yellowish brown, all in dirty tones. The hills north of Turut and Husseinan are quite invisible owing to the windy hazy weather. Stronger than ever is the impression of standing on an uneven shore with a boundless sea stretched out in front.
We had not seen a drop of water on the journey to Aruzun except at the well Cha-penu, and in whatever direction one turns one's eyes from the heights over the undulating country, it bears the aspect of exceeding drought and barrenness. It is, therefore, surprising to hear that not fewer than forty-two wells and springs, some fresh, some salt, are situated in this country, and have all names. Only in the Persian salt-deserts is there any danger of perishing from thirst, for elsewhere there are innumerable wells and springs scattered all over the land, and seldom is a desert-route so badly provided that there is more than a day's march without water.
I had tried two meridional routes through the Kevir, and now I learned at Aruzun that a third way started from it eastwards to Halvan. It is 25 farsakh long, of which i 2 are in the Kevir, and i 3 over hard ground, with villages. It runs through Cheshme - airekun, and from Aruzun it is said to be 12 farsakh to Kuh-i-dumdar, which is the evvel-i-Kevir, that is, the beginning of the salt desert. This seems to indicate that a peninsula of dry land here projects out far into the desert. This way is said to be very difficult and barren. The Jandak—Peyestan route is
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