National Institute of Informatics - Digital Silk Road Project
Digital Archive of Toyo Bunko Rare Books

982 CAVE-TEMPLES & ANTIQUES OF THE THOUSAND BUDDHAS [Ch. XXV

orn. with circular ' spot ' of richer design. Part preserved shows outer edge of dark purple and pale pink widespread flowers, with yellow and green centres, alternating between dark green leaves, and growing on yellow tendril-like stems from centre of white and pink blossoms. As in Ch. oo228, variegated yarns, introduced only to form spot, run with warp of the fabric, and are cut off behind. Here, however, they are not inwoven with warp, but pass over the twill ground in loose threads, long or short as required to block out forms of leaves and flowers, and giving effect of satin-stitch embroidery. For other true brocades, cf. Ch. 0065. Colours very fresh. 3' x Ir to r. Pl. CVI.

Ch. 00230. Misc. cuttings of figured silk ; woven in thick firm satin twill as Ch. oo9. Ground bright red. Pattern : a repeating octagonal spot, 8i," x 9" in diam., set out in rows horizontally apart c. I", vertically c. 2'. In spandrels between each group of four octagons are smaller rosettes of similar character. The large ' spots ' composed of intricate bird and flower pattern, conventionalized almost beyond recognition and worked out in dark blue and white, relieved with light blue, bright yellow, pink, and green ; last appearing at outer edges of design.

The design, akin to that of Ch. 00369, is of a type not otherwise represented in the Collection ; for an explanation see above, p. 910, where transformation, perhaps at the hands of Central-Asian. weavers, of an originally Chinese design is suggested. But all details have hardened almost into geometric design.

Texture and method of weaving correspond nearly to those of Ch. 009 group, and all forms are carried out with the rigid 'stepped' outlines characteristic of it ; but these give the effect, with the now intricate pattern, of a carpet design much more than a textile.

Good condition. Longest fr. I2". Pls. CVI, CXII, and (reconstruction of design) Pl. CXVIII.

Ch. 00231 a-b. Two frs. of silk, lemon yellow and pale buff. Woven in twill, running in opposite directions on ground and pattern. Warp (buff), a medium-fine slightly twisted yarn. \Veft (yellow), an untwisted broad yarn. Pattern : conventional scroll bearing bracts, buds, and leaves. Condition perfect. Each fr. 2 "x 2*". Pl. CXII.

Ch. 00232. Twenty-two frs. of silk damask, lemon-yellow and apricot. Woven in twill, running in same direction across ground and pattern. Warp (lemon-yellow), a medium-fine twisted yarn, prob. sized. Weft (apricot), a broad yarn without twist. Pattern : a conventional floral scroll with long narrow leaves. Condition perfect. Gr. M. PI. CXII.

Ch. 00283. Eight frs. of silk damask, lemon yellow and cream. Pattern woven in large twill, and ground in fine twill running in same direction. Warp, a fine cream twisted yarn, prob. sized in all but one fr. which seems unsized. Weft (lemon yellow), rather fine untwisted yarn. Pattern large and massive, too fragmentary to reconstruct, but containing leaves of decided 'Persian' type, routed at

base, tapering, and sharply serrated. Condition perfect. Gr. M.

Ch. 00234 a-d. Five frs. of silk damask, lemon yellow, points from valance streamer. Pattern woven in large satin twill ; ground in fine twill running in reverse direction. Warp (pale buff), fine untwisted yarn, prob. sized. Weft (lemon yellow), broad untwisted yarn. Pattern : highly conventionalized lotus and leaves, arranged as a large `spot' pattern alternately elliptical and lozenge, set out .diagonally. Condition good ; slightly faded and soiled. Each fr. 4 x 4.".

Ch. 00235. Eighteen frs. of silk damask, fellow-ochre. Ground fine plain weave, pattern large twill. Warp and weft the same colour, and of untwisted yarn ; warp sized. Surface polished owing to heavy calendering. Pattern composed of bold leaves and flowers, but too fragmentary to reconstruct. A large sheath occurs with recurved lips, common in Turkish tile work. Condition perfect. Gr. length 19".

Ch. 00236. Ten frs. of silk damask, dark yellow-ochre. Pattern woven in twill, with ground of much finer twill running in same direction. Weft predominates in pattern and warp in ground. Pattern seems to be a large floral one, but is too fragmentary to reconstruct. Some pieces show calendering. Condition perfect. Gr. M. 4" X 2 S".

Ch. 00237. Five frs. of silk satin, dark yellow-ochre. Woven as a double cloth of which the face is satin twill and the back plain ; the yarn of the back being coarser than that of the face, and the two skilfully interwoven making a strong and substantial fabric. Condition good, but surface rather worn. Gr. M. 4" x 3".

Ch. 00238. Five frs. of silk damask, dull purple. Woven with ground in small twill, and pattern coarser. Design : a spot, well separated, prob. an open double lozenge device with solid pear-shaped spots within lozenges and in external angles. Very fragmentary. Warp and weft of equal thickness and of untwisted yarn. Condition good. Gr. M. 6"x*".

Ch. 00239. Fr. of cream-coloured silk damask, poor quality. Ground large, pattern fine twill. Design : a well: covered floral scroll. Warp and weft yarns equally fine and untwisted. Condition good. 3" X 2r". Pl. CXXI.

Ch. 00240. Two pieces of silk damask, dark dull purple. Ground plain, pattern twill, close and well-woven. Design : bands of chevron (three lines in each) touching at points. Lozenges thus formed occupied, in alternate rows, by elliptical quatrefoil rosettes placed vertically and elliptical (hexagonal) rings placed horizontally. Cf. Ch. 00342. b. Faded one side but otherwise well preserved. I' r ib" (selvedge to selvedge) x c. 4" and 6" X 32".

Ch. 00241. Three frs. of silk damask, yellow. Weaving similar to Clt. 00233 ; pattern floral, fragmentary. Condition perfect. Gr. length 54.. Pl. CXXI.