国立情報学研究所 - ディジタル・シルクロード・プロジェクト
『東洋文庫所蔵』貴重書デジタルアーカイブ
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| 0331 |
Innermost Asia : vol.1 |
| 極奥アジア : vol.1 |
引用情報
OCR読み取り結果
*Figured Silks*, which he published at my request in the *Burlington Magazine* of 1920, has recorded
the preliminary results that his examination of a number of characteristic specimens had yielded.
With the help of the very careful illustrations drawn by Mr. Andrews' hand, it brings out clearly
the essential features of the distinctly Chinese style displayed by these fabrics, together with many
important observations on the origin and development of the ornamental motifs used in them.
Numerous other pieces still await final cleaning ⁶ᵃ and full analysis of details by the experienced Object of
eye and hand of the same artist. But the data already furnished by him in the Descriptive List review of
provide a sufficiently safe basis for the general review I propose to attempt in this place. Its silk fabrics.
object will be to offer succinct information on the technique of weaving observed in the silk fabrics
of L.C. ; on the several methods of decoration used in them, and on the characteristic peculiarities
of style which their designs exhibit. The observations on technique and style will allow me also
to indicate certain evidence derivable from them which has an archaeological bearing and may
incidentally help to define more closely the chronological limits for the textile remains of this site
and for some recovered elsewhere.
As regards the weaving of the Lou-lan silks Mr. Andrews' investigation has brought out two Weaves of
interesting facts. In the plain silks, i.e. those which show no decorative figuring, silk stuffs.
a variety of 'plain weave' is always used, corresponding to what technically is
known as a 'rib' or 'repp'.⁶ In this the weft threads being thicker than the
warp, a transverse ribbed effect is produced, more or less pronounced as the relative
thickness of the two threads is varied. In respect of the figured silks from L.C.
Mr. Andrews in his above-quoted paper has already noted the important fact that the
weave is, with the single exception of one loosely woven silk gauze, L.C. iii. 04. d,
'a variation of that technically known as "warp-rib"'. It may be briefly described as
giving a ribbed appearance running across the fabric, due to the number of threads in
the warp being greater per inch than that in the weft, and to a particular order of
interweaving which is too technical to detail here, but which the diagram of the
face of the cloth, greatly enlarged, may sufficiently explain. The figure or pattern
is formed by the warp threads and presents a kind of dull satin surface, faintly ribbed.'⁷ This
character of the weave applies also to the rare 'damasks' from L.C.
This exclusive use of the 'warp-rib' in the Lou-lan figured silks assumes particular significance Exclusive
in view of the fact that 'twill' weave, which would have been most useful and appropriate for the use of
production of designs, whether in damasks or polychrome fabrics, is entirely absent from the large 'warp-rib'
series of figured silks of L.C. Yet this 'most valuable of all weaves from the designer's point of weave.
view', as Mr. Andrews has justly described it,⁸ is regularly met with in the great collection of Chinese
figured silks recovered by me from the 'Caves of the Thousand Buddhas' and is represented with
equal abundance also among those brought to light by me from the tombs of Astāna. The fabrics
of the latter site can be dated with certainty as belonging to the early T'ang period.⁹ The same may
safely be assumed of the great mass of the Ch'ien-fo-tung fabrics in so far as they do not belong
to the period intervening between the fall of the T'ang dynasty, A.D. 907, and the final walling-up
of their place of deposit, early in the eleventh century.¹⁰
On the other side we have the important fact that all fragments of figured silks excavated by 'Warp-rib'
me on the Tun-huang Limes, two of them dating from the first century B.C., and the other not weave of
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483
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494
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515
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536
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566
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577
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587
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597
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607
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617
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627
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637
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647
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657
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667
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677
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684
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