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| 0081 |
Ruins of Desert Cathay : vol.2 |
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Clearly the villagers were no hunters. But whether this
was due to surviving Buddhist feeling about the taking
of life, or to some special local superstition, or simply to
sheer indolence, I attempted in vain to find out.
The suspicious reticence of the people proved a terrible
barrier throughout. In time I learned to realize that even
the most reserved and shy of Turkestan 'Taghliks' were
almost loquacious when compared with these good people
of Tun-huang. No question I put about the reason which
caused these areas of fertile land to remain waste,
ever elicited any other answer beyond that impenetrable
'Pu chih-tao,' "I do not know." Was it really a diminu-
tion of the water-supply since pre-rebellion days, or rather
the want of adequate labour for more extensive irriga-
tion? It seemed difficult to believe in the former as I
looked at the overflowing canal and the big range under
deep snow which came into full view on the south as the
ground got more open.
We camped in a tamarisk grove near the hamlet of
Shih-tsao, and before starting next morning were to my
relief joined by a small convoy of coolies and camels. The
eight men whom the Ya-mén attendants had managed to
scrape together looked the craziest crew I ever led to
digging—so torpid and enfeebled by opium were they;
but I was glad to have even them. So they were promptly
advanced a fair lump of silver to lay in provisions, and the
cart which had brought them from town was to be taken
along for their conveyance as far as the ground would
permit. Moving for some three miles northward along
the canal we came upon the crumbling homesteads of a
village left deserted since its sack by the Tungans. In the
midst of this desolation it was pleasant to find the decayed
fort tenanted by a number of baby camels, only a few days
old, which were being kept here out of mischief and the
biting wind while their mothers were grazing outside.
The antics of the quaint little beasts supplied a contrast
to the grim scenes of death and plunder which these walls
must have witnessed scarcely forty years before.
Then we turned off to the north-west across a
belt of scrub-covered waste where the lines of irrigation
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