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| 0447 |
Ruins of Desert Cathay : vol.2 |
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pebbles and boulders, we reached the long-stretched
fields of Chin-fo-ssŭ. They occupy the central part of the
large alluvial fan at the mouth of the valley by which we
were to enter the mountains. The small town which gives
its name, meaning the 'Shrine of the Golden Buddha,' to
this fertile tract showed high and well-kept walls bearing
towers and battlements (Fig. 230). Outside its eastern
gate I found a posse of petty officials with a handful of
red-cloaked soldiers drawn up to receive me. But the
squalid temple close by intended for our accommodation
looked far from attractive, and still less so the prospect of
getting our water from a slimy tank just in front.
Moving up the steadily rising ground towards the
debouchure of the valley I soon found a shady camping
place in a terraced fruit garden overgrown with luxuriant
scrub. A high watch-tower behind, surrounded by a moat,
and some farm dwellings adjoining, showed the same
picturesque neglect. The canal which passed by the side
of this orchard was dry; but assured that water was to
be let into it 'presently,' I decided to remain. Here, so
close to the mountains, and about 6300 feet above the
sea, the air was already much cooler. But the pleasant
sensation grew fainter as hour after hour passed without
the desired water arriving. When at last a few bucket-
fuls were brought, smell and colour showed plainly that the
water came from a tank and not a running canal.
During this weary wait, which was enlivened only by a
good-natured crowd of curious villagers (Fig. 231), I had
to receive Chin T'ai-tsin, who had just arrived from town
to arrange for my safe start. His misgivings about the
pony-men brought from Su-chou were but too well founded.
After depositing our baggage they and their animals
vanished completely. Next day was to show whether
they could be caught again or replaced by transport locally
raised. A day's halt was the least allowance I could
make to my Mandarin friend for trying his diplomacy
and suave pressure on the recalcitrant people from Su-
chou. Late at night I heard that they had crowded into
his quarters and declared that they were prepared to take
the severest beating rather than move into those dread
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