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| 0506 |
Ruins of Desert Cathay : vol.2 |
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course of centuries so thoroughly tamed and divested of
those formidable qualities which once made them the
rulers of all Asia and the terror of Europe. But supplies
fit for our Chinese were scarcely obtainable, and our much-
tried 'senile babies' were ever clamouring for a speedy
escape to their beloved slum nursery in the plains.
Late at night on August 23rd we entered the broad
Li-yüan Valley, after having in our descent passed rapidly
from Alpine verdure into the familiar stony wastes of
the foot-hills. Next forenoon we reached the small and
pretty oasis of Li-yüan, where even our Chinese felt
assured that all troubles and privations were ended.
From my tent pitched in a picturesque ruined garden
I watched with real relief men and beasts enjoying the
great treat I had ordered for them. Not a single animal
had been lost in spite of all the hard marching at great
elevations, and as the photograph taken of our 'babes'
(Fig. 247) shows, they too had not suffered any lasting
hurt.
A day's well-merited halt was passed in pouring rain,
but was made pleasant by the hospitable attention of the
local commandant, a hearty old warrior, who had been
expecting us for weeks past. Then on August 26th we
started for Kan-chou through a tract studded with oases
containing walled villages (Fig. 253). The flooded state
of the rivers, which after the heavy rains spread themselves
like big torrents across the plains, obliged us to move to
the high road, and, causing much trouble there also,
delayed our arrival until the next evening. Outside the
walls of the large and populous city (Fig. 254) a grand
array of Mandarins received me. The honour was some-
what embarrassing, considering the tattered condition of
what clothing I had been able to take with me to the
mountains.
Naik Ram Singh, who rejoined me before Kan-chou,
had prepared quarters for us in a large temple-like structure
outside the south city wall, and there I was welcomed by a
huge bag of mails which a messenger from Mr. Macartney
had brought after a sixty days' ride from Kashgar. A
three months' thirst for news kept me awake for most of
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813
814
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