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| 0402 |
Ruins of Desert Cathay : vol.2 |
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Akhun's care (Fig. 217) for the fine grazing below Wang-
fo-hsia, where they were to enjoy an unbroken and much-
needed holiday until my return to An-hsi in the autumn.
The presence of Ibrahim Beg at An-hsi and the neighbour-
hood of the friendly priests at the 'Myriad Buddhas' had
recommended that vacation-retreat for my camels, and I
may say at once that I had no reason to regret it.
On July 11th we marched over easy but barren slopes
to the north-east, and, just after crossing the almost imper-
ceptible watershed between the great basins of Shih-pao-
ch'êng and Ch'ang-ma, found a spring of slightly sulphurous
water at the foot of the absolutely bare outer range known
as Ying-tsui-shan. There we camped. The sky had
become delightfully clear, and next morning a magnificent
view revealed the glacier-girt main range rising to peaks
over 20,000 feet high and draining towards Ch'ang-ma.
The distance and relatively high elevation from which we
saw these bold peaks, with the extraordinary contrast of
the flat fore-ground formed by another huge gravel glacis
sloping down towards Ch'ang-ma, made the panorama
most impressive. Everything seemed on such a big scale,
and there were no distracting details. A broad gap above
the alluvial fan to the south-east marked the point where
the Su-lo Ho on its way down to Ch'ang-ma breaks through
the snowy range flanking it from the north.
For over fourteen miles we marched down over a
stony steppe, showing but very scanty scrub and, in spite
of numerous shallow flood beds, not a drop of water. Nor
did we come upon any spring in the broad dry river bed
we were at last following, until within half a mile of Sha-
ho, the westernmost hamlet of the oasis. But from here
onwards water abounded; it seemed as if all the under-
ground drainage from the snowy range was here eager to
get to the surface. Our surroundings seemed changed as
if by magic, and the eleven miles' ride down the gradually
broadening oasis of Ch'ang-ma was delightful.
There were marshy meadows full of springs along the
left bank of the river, and in spite of canals taking off on
the right, a short distance below Sha-ho the main channel
was about fifteen yards broad with a depth of over two feet
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