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| 0431 |
Ruins of Desert Cathay : vol.2 |
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CHAPTER LXXVI
AT SU-CHOU AND ITS 'SPRING OF WINE'
My rapid survey of Chia-yü-kuan completed, I was free on
the morning of July 22nd to set forth for Su-chou. The
first large town we were to see within true Cathay was
exercising a magnetic attraction on my people, and baggage
and men were ready far earlier than usual. Yet even this
early start did not prevent the kindly 'guardian of the
Gate' from seeing me off in person. With an escort of
ten mounted men, who had arrived the evening before
as a special compliment from the Brigadier-General com-
manding at Su-chou, my cavalcade looked imposing. Two
banners of large size and gay colours were being carried
along by the little troop, and the huge straw hats with
fluttering bands which the men wore added to the general
quaintness. A carbine or two among their equipment
looked strangely out of place in this mediaeval stage-
mounting. But for the snowy peaks of the Richthofen
range looking down upon us from the south there was
little to distract the eye on the nineteen miles' march to
Su-chou. By far the greatest part of it lay over a stony
waste, which sorely tried our ponies' feet, already unshod
from the last days' marches. Numerous canals from the
left bank of the Pei-ta Ho were crossed en route; but the
fertile loess belt which they irrigate lies miles away to the
north.
The heat and glare were great, and we all felt relieved
when by 3 P.M. the high walls of Su-chou came in view
from the edge of unbroken cultivation near the west bank
of the river. The many branches we forded held little
water at the time, but the deeply cut loess banks on either
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