floundered in deep pools ; whilst the unlucky pedestrian had to wade along the road or climb razor-shaped paths, often on the edge of a big drop, and be constantly meeting strings of laden people. These people were, however, always friendly and
ready to lend a hand when difficulties were encountered, or to exchange a word of greeting. Some of them were famine refugees, the father carrying a crying baby and exclaiming, " It is cold," and the mother saying, " Alas ! what can I do ? "
From these primitive roads Pereira suddenly emerged on to the railway, for Kwanyintang was then the head of the railway, under construction from Chingchow (on the Peking—Hankow line) to Sianfu. He took a three hours' journey to L'oyang, and from there visited a General who has since come very much to the front in China. This was General Wu Pu Fu. He was then aged forty-eight, and appeared to Pereira to be the most capable General in China. He was keen, energetic, quiet and determined. He was one of the few officials who took an interest in tree-planting, and in his camp had planted hundreds of fir, willow, elm, ash and other trees. His troops were regularly paid seven dollars a month, besides getting two meals a day, though in the old armies the men had often to find their own food. The General himself hailed from Shantung, but the men came from all Provinces, and were well-disciplined, smart-looking and keen on parade. They still used the German drill with the fantastic parade step ; and they had a curious crouching double like a cat moving over hot bricks. The German drill was passed on to China by the Japanese, and these
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