National Institute of Informatics - Digital Silk Road Project
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Peking to Lhasa : vol.1 |
54 PEKING TO LHASA
Pereira he stopped his devotions and several times
called out to him to come and have a cup of tea.
At the summit he stayed in the same temple
that he had occupied in 1910. The guest room had
been rebuilt and he was given an excellent room
with clean plank walls, three panes of glass in the
window, two clean bedsteads, a table with drawers
and a large charcoal brazier. There were thirty
lamas. The sub-Prior was a very nice man who
had been to Mandalay. When Pereira gave him
his card and he saw that he was a General, he
sprang to attention and saluted to show that he
knew the right thing to do.
In the Ching-ting temple, which is situated on
the highest point, is a fine bronze screen presented
by the Emperor K'ang-hsi. Behind the temple
is the famous suicide's cliff, believed to be the
greatest known precipice in the world. But on
account of clouds Pereira could not see more than
50 yards down.
The magnificent panorama extending to the
west over countless ranges Pereira did get a view
of in 1910 ; but on this occasion everything was
denied him. And he missed the sunrise, the
famous Buddha's glory, which apparently is a
kind of rainbow reflected down the precipice from
the sun behind, whilst figures standing on the
brim are magnified into gigantic shadows with
their heads touching the rainbow. On a clear
evening countless lights twinkle far away in the
plain below.
The descent to Omei-hsien, 26 miles, Pereira
easily accomplished in under twelve hours. From
there he made his way up the Ya River to Yachow,
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