Peking to Lhasa : vol.1 / Page 99 (Color Image)

0099	Peking to Lhasa : vol.1

TO TA-CHIEN-LU 69

radiate three deep gullies—one to the east, the

Lu Ho valley by which Pereira had come, one to

the north to Tanpa, and one to the S.S.W. from

which three roads diverge, one leading to Tauwu,

one to Batang and one to Tien-wan. The popula-

tion is floating and may be put at about 14,000,

most of them Chinese. But there are also a good

many Tibetans and many Lamas of the red sect.

The Europeans at the time of Pereira's visit

consisted of Mr. Louis King, the acting British

Consul, a French bishop who is head of the Tibetan

Mission which has priests scattered about along

the Tibetan border, Mr. and Mrs. Sorrenson of the

China Inland Mission, and two members of the

American Seventh Day Adventists who keep the

Sabbath on a Saturday and thereby disconcert

Chinese students of Christianity.

December 27 Pereira spent in making calls.

And he had now his first opportunity of coming

in touch with Tibetan life. He visited the big

Lamasery outside the town on the Cheto road.

The outer court was the scene of an annual

festival which lasts three days. The officials and

those of the better class sit in the balcony above

whilst the crowd form a circle below. In the

centre is a high pole, at the foot of which is laid a

dummy devil. The monks come out arrayed in

flowing garments of many colours with five skulls

embroidered in front at the bottom. They wear

big circular-brimmed hats with high crowns sur-

mounted by a peacock's feather. First the living

Buddha comes forward with a small bell in the

left hand and sometimes a small knife in the right.

He then exorcises the devil. After that two huge

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