National Institute of Informatics - Digital Silk Road Project
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Peking to Lhasa : vol.1 |
THE CHING LING 35
picturesque roofed bridges, such as are common in
Szechwan and South China, but which as far as he
could recollect did not exist in North China. The
path now again ascends steeply, rising to 7150 feet
at the Chi-kung Liang.
At Sünyangpa, 90 miles from Sian, he again
found soldiers with little discipline. They awoke
him early by trying to get into his house, probably
with the idea of looting his baggage. But his
escort mounted guard and he was left in peace.
This house was a regular gambling den. In the
evening the soldiers came to play, whilst at mid-
night his boys were caught gambling with his
chair-bearers.
Gambling and opium - smoking are the two
chief curses of the Chinese. When the Govern-
ment a dozen years before set to work to suppress
opium, it for once did a good action without getting
much credit for it. But since the introduction of
the Republic, opium and morphia pills have again
made their appearance, and opium-smoking seems
to be constantly on the increase.
Leaving Sünyangpa the path again ascends
narrow valleys for 91 miles to P'ingho-liang, the
highest point on this route (8690 feet). Several
coffins were passed on the way. They were made
of heavy wood and carried by eight men who
seemed to sing the whole way. On the top was
the usual cock, whose duty it is to let the spirit of
the departed know by his crowing where the coffin
is, in case he might leave the body and not know
where to find it again.
Pereira's escort consisted at this time of one old
and two young soldiers. And he remarks that
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