Peking to Lhasa : vol.1 / Page 176 (Color Image)

0176	Peking to Lhasa : vol.1

130 PEKING TO LHASA

to the temple, where they were each given a

big bowl of tsamba, the higher lamas sitting

on raised stools being given in addition special

delicacies such as pyramids of rancid butter. To

this ceremony the common people were not ad-

mitted, but Pereira and Madame Nèel, a French

lady on a visit to Jye-kundo for the purpose

of studying Tibetan Buddhism, had received a

special invitation to be present.

Two monks with long ropes walked about

belabouring the shoulders of any lama caught

talking. And for some minutes the noise of the

whacking dominated over all other sounds. When

all the monks had gone out the two Europeans

as a great privilege were admitted to see the

decorations. There were some circular things

impossible to describe which looked like linoleum

camp baths with sides six inches high. Around

them on the sides were numerous brass bowls of

various sizes, some filled with evil-smelling wax

and looking like huge night-lights, some with

grain, and some with rancid butter painted brown

to resemble a tree with coloured butter flowers.

In the courtyard was a crowd of Tibetans,

chiefly beggars, who were given the remains of

the feast after the ceremony. There were many

types among them, but the principal type more

resembled a Red Indian than the puffy-cheeked

Mongol.

Bronze ornaments decorated the top of the

temple. The centre one looked like a long bell

placed on a coronet. The side ones, also looking

like long bells, are, according to Madame Nèel,

symbols of victory. Gold ornaments are only

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