Peking to Lhasa : vol.1 / Page 195 (Color Image)

0195	Peking to Lhasa : vol.1

CHAMDO TO LHASA 147

edifices of stone covered with mud are mostly

low and sombre. In the chief temple there were

only about a dozen monks chanting prayers and

beating drums with curious hooked sticks. Two

rows of square wooden pillars ran across the square

hall. They had huge mud heads, apparently of

Chinese design, with dresses to represent the

bodies tied round the pillars. They appeared

to represent Chinese deities and warriors. A

small flight of steps led up to the doors of the

inner sanctuary. The Pu-sa was hidden under

" Katas " (ceremonial scarves), and big black mud

devils were arranged down the sides. Pereira

climbed to the top of the chief temple up several

almost perpendicular flights of stairs, at the top

of which was a bear pole, a log with notches cut

in it for foothold.

The Chamdo Province is governed by a lama

called the Kalon Lama. A lesser lama called

the Si-wa-la rules in the interior. The Dalai

Lama has a representative here and also a lama,

called the Drepon, in charge of the soldiers. The

Si-wa-la was a nice old lama aged 69. He lived

in a pleasant little country house which from the

outside looked rather like a temple. It was sur-

rounded by willow trees and guarded by three

mastiffs. He was supported on to the roof to be

photographed by Pereira.

The soldiers numbered about sixty. Some had

khaki jackets and coloured breeches, and some

khaki breeches and coloured jackets. For head-

gear they wore a sort of felt hat. They looked

like a rabble. They only drilled on Sundays, and

one Sunday Pereira went out to have a look at

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