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0161 Peking to Lhasa : vol.1
Peking to Lhasa : vol.1 / Page 161 (Color Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000296
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THE START FOR TIBET   121

now on the range marked as Baian Kara or Baian-

tu-kou on our maps, though nobody knew those

names. It is the watershed between the Yangtze

and the Huang Ho. He camped at an elevation

of 14,802 feet, and on June 10 made a short

march of only 3i miles up a grassy valley and

over the Ch'a-la Ping Pass, 14,892 feet. Then

he had a nasty descent through heavy, sticky red

clay and up another grassy valley lying between

low hills.

His mules were again causing trouble and he

hired six yaks from Tibetans to go with him to

the Yangtze. After starting in mist and sleet on

June 11 it turned milder and he marched 11

miles to the Sa-yung, 14,792 feet, after crossing

the Ch'a-la-p'ing plateau, 15,012 feet, the highest

point he had so far reached. A broken range

about 5 miles S.S.E. running roughly E.S.E. is

called Mu-mo-di-ya and is apparently a branch of

the range marked on the maps as Baian Kara.

Some of the hills were covered with snow and

about 1000 feet above the valley.

Following up the broad Sa-yung valley for

11 miles on June 12 he halted at the foot of

Ch'a-la-ya-k'ou Pass at 15,269 feet and reflected

that there were very few people in the world

except Tibetans who had encamped at that height

at the age of fifty-seven. " Of all the countries I

have visited," he writes, " Tibet is the most

detestable—one visit is enough." He now found

no difficulty in breathing even at this elevation,

though a climb of even 200 feet would make

him pant, and none of the other people or

animals appeared to be affected by the height.