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0610 Southern Tibet : vol.7
Southern Tibet : vol.7 / Page 610 (Color Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000263
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436

   

ECKENSTEIN, GUILLARMOD AND PFANNL. - FERBER AND HONIGMANN.

Of the Mus-tagh Pass Guillarmod heard:'

C'est à l'est de cette tour que se trouve le fameux passage du Mustagh , ...; au dire des indigènes, il est devenu impraticable par suite de l'écroulement d'un pan de montagne qui n'a laissé qu'une paroi infranchissable.

Camp VI, Biange, was at a height of 15,176 feet.

Prof. SUESS had asked PFANNL to look out for limestone »et en général des dépôts sédimentaires des périodes antérieures aux grands soulèvements qui ont fait de la chaîne de l'Himalaya ce qu'elle est actuellement». It was on the route to Biange that they found an answer to this question, finding very pure marble and ordinary limestone.

Camp VII, Doksam, was at 15,518 feet, a little above Conway's Fan Camp. From this point they touched new ground where Conway had not been. Guillarmod writes Doksam on the map, Doxam in the text, and Doscam on an illustration which is, by the way perfectly splendid, and represents the Mitre Peak, which he estimates at 7,500 metres. Camp VIII, on the Godwin-Austen Glacier was 16,592 feet (5,057 m.) high. Already from here one could see that Conway's Possible saddle was only a narrow passage between the upper and lower Godwin-Austen Glacier. Camp IX on the southern foot of K 2 was 17,382 feet (5,298 m.) high. Camp X, 18,733 feet (5,7 I o m.) was situated between K 2 and Broad Peak. The latter he estimates at 8,500 m., or only I I I metres less than K 2 which he also calls Chogori. Camp XI, 2 0,000 feet (6, I oo m.), was at a narrow place on the snow-covered glacier. An attempt to climb K 2, July I oth, was given up at 2 2,000 feet. Camp XII, west of Staircase Peak, was of the great height of 21,000 feet (6,40o m.) approximately. On the southern slopes of K 2 they found limestone.

Regarding the movement of the glaciers, and the height of the snow limit the following observations were made.2

Tous, sans exception, sont en crue manifeste ; leurs moraines frontales sont constamment en mouvement, et il ne se passe pas une minute sans qu'un éboulement ne s'y produise; la masse de glace de leur langue terminale déborde et domine le dos de la moraine, souvent de plus de 20 et 3o mètres, refoulant et décapitant le faîte de ces formidables murs de pierre. La limite inférieure du névé remontait, au commencement d'août, à 5700-5800 mètres sur la branche orientale du glacier de Godwin-Austen ... .

From Camp XII they returned down the glacier.

These extracts may be completed with the following observations of Dr. H. PFANNL who has published two narratives of his experiences on the expedition of OSKAR ECKENSTEIN, so well described by GUILLARMOD. The principal object of the expedition was to definitely determine at what height the rarefaction of the air —

above hitherto reached points     made climbing impossible. K 2 (Dapsang or Mount

           
           
 

I Op. cit., p. 194. 2 Op. cit., p. 338.