IIIF Color HighRes
National Institute of Informatics - Digital Silk Road Project
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| IIIF Color HighRes |
| Southern Tibet : vol.7 |
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Citation Information
!I;
CHAPTER LII.
THE DUKE OF THE ABRUZZI.
We now come to one of the most important expeditions ever carried out in the High Kara-korum, viz. the Italian expedition, in the summer of 1909, under command of the
DUKE OF THE ABRUZZI, and described in the most brilliant way by Dr. DE FILIPPI.I
The chief object of the expedition was the Duke's »desire to contribute to the
solution of the problem as to the greatest height to which man may attain in mountain
climbing». But on the way to this goal the expedition accomplished excellent mountaineering and exploring work »for the purpose of collecting data for the more accurate knowledge of a system of ranges that, taken all together, is perhaps the grandest in the world». Here already at the beginning of his work Dr. Filippi points out that the Kara-korum is a system of ranges, not one range, as it still is often called. In spite of this he however, sometimes uses the term »the Karakoram range».2
Already before the appearance of the book, Dr. de Filippi had published several articles in different periodicals. In the Alpine 5ournal he chiefly dealt with matters of alpine interest, the geography having been treated in the Geographical journal. To the mountaineers he addresses the following words:
K 2 was selected as being the second highest mountain in the world , and the highest which the political conditions prevailing in the Himalayan regions render it possible to approach. The only European expedition (Guillarmod, etc. 1902) which had seen the mountain at close range appeared to admit the possibility of an attempt.3
At another place he gives an interesting analysis of the rate of march at different altitudes:
il
~x
From 23,000 to 2 3, 500 36o feet an hour.
»
23,500 » 24,300 27o » » »
» 24,300 » 24,600 i 60 » » »
The greatest altitude reached was 2 4, 600 feet.4
I Karakoram and Western Himalaya An Account of the Expedition of H R. H. Prince Luigi Amedeo of Savoy, Duke of the Abruzzi by Filippo De Filippi, London 1912.
Y Op. cit., p• 45•
3 Dr. Filippo de Filippi: The Expedition of H. R. H. the Duke of the Abruzzi to the Karakoram Himalayas. Alpine Journal. May 191o. Vol. XXV, p. 107.
4 Alpine Journal. November 191o. Vol. XXV, p. 331.
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