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0653 Southern Tibet : vol.4
南チベット : vol.4
Southern Tibet : vol.4 / 653 ページ(カラー画像)

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doi: 10.20676/00000263
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NYANDI-GOMPA.

373

Sherring gives a short description of the pilgrimage around the Kailas, but it does not appear from his narrative whether his communications are derived from his own observations or from native informants. Nor does his map say anything as to his own route, for it has all the trade routes marked in red. Concerning the road from Tarchen (or Darchan) and back to Tarchen, he says, the circuit is about 25 miles, 1. e. 40.2 km. In reality it is 48.4. His description is interesting, as it was probably the single one existing before my journey. He says: »The actual

circuit round the holy mountain of Kailas    occupies on an average three days,
the distance being about twenty-five miles. The path is not good , walking is absolutely obligatory, and the track rises in one place to a very great height namely, to the Gauri-Kund, which is a lake that remains frozen at all times of the year,

even in the hottest weather    Ordinarily the first monastery visited is the one

at Nendiphu (Nyandi-pu)    The next monastery is at Dediphu (Diri-pu), and

thence the road goes viii the Gauri-Kund frozen lake to Zutulphu (or Jamdulphu)

(i. e. Tsumtul-pu)    Darchan is the spot where the circuit usually begins and ends.»

The description is fairly correct, though » the very great height» is not at Gauri-kund, but at the pass, Dolma-la, 4 km. west of the lake. A European who had made this journey would never have omitted to mention the pass which is by far the most striking experience on the whole way around the Kailas.

The four monasteries of Kang-rinpoche are Nyandi, Diri ftu, Tsuintul and Gyangta. In 1906, which was a la-lo or »horse-year», 1` yandi gomj5a was visited by 5000 pilgrims, whereas in 1907 so far only about 500 had arrived, chiefly because of the small-pox in Purang. In 1906 some 500 Ladakis had arrived, in 1907 only about 4o or 5o. These figures are, of course, very unreliable. Mongolian pilgrims never used to come. A curiosity in the lakang of the gompa is a pair of elephant's tusks called langchen-sala-ra,5len in Tibetan.

The view from the roof of the monastery is extremely picturesque. In the foreground the extraordinary characteristic lamaistic architecture with poles, streamers and rags, in the background the wild, steep conglomerate mountains and above all the peak of the Sacred Kailas. Some photos of this view are to be found opposite p. 210 of Vol. II.

The snowfall during the winter is said to be abundant. Sometimes it is even impossible to leave or reach the g-omma. If necessary, the lamas then used to climb the crest of the mountains. In 1907 they had nearly no rain, though some years it rained heavily in the later part of the summer.

From Nyandi-gomma we went down again to the bridge, leaving it at our right and sticking to the right or western side of the river. The landscape is

I Western Tibet, p. 279 et seq.